Wine Conversations: Wine in Restaurants...and beyond! (VI)
What are the demands of modern wine drinkers, and how should service professionals meet them?
When asked to be the final contributor to this month’s Wine Conversation, I was shook…at first. But before I get to my feelings, I must shout out Maria Banson for leading the charge and facilitating these important conversations among Substack writers. I’d also like to thank Dave Baxter for inviting me to share my thoughts on this big topic.
Now, back to my shookethness.
Being the last to do anything is always a bit nerve-wracking, especially when you have to succeed five incredible responses about wine consumers and this ever-changing wine industry. But around these parts, we feel the fear and do it anyway.
So before I share, let’s have a quick review, shall we?
To start, Maria spoke about her experience as a floor sommelier and why it is crucial to deliver guests the wine they want, when they want it, and at a price point they can be happy with. She also shared a reflection about wine professionals that resonated with me:
“The ideal wine professional is someone who can understand the role that tannins play in the structure of wine, but has the emotional intelligence to omit that word from conversations with a guest who would have big question marks over their head if they heard the word “tannins”. This person will also demonstrate patience when a know-it-all tries to teach them something they learned in a textbook years ago, and excitement when someone finds a wine they absolutely adore. Kinda like that old saying, “Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit, but wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad”.
Next, Stacey spoke about her experience in wine service from the lens of an educator. While she does have previous experience of serving wine in restaurants and bars, she now serves guests within the room of a winery and stressed the importance of leaving your ego at the door and striving to make a connection while delivering good service:
“Good wine service requires curiosity about the wine, of course, but it becomes great wine service when combined with curiosity about the guest as well. When you approach another person with curiosity, you haven’t made a prejudgment about what they need or want; you’ve invited them to share their needs and wants with you.”
George provided readers with a few nuggets of historical context and shared his gripes with wine service. This one spoke to me deeply, and I hope no one takes offense at it:
If, as an example, I’m asking you what the maceration time is for a given orange wine on the list, chances are I know what orange wine is. Please do not proceed with an explanation of how it’s white wine with skin contact… This again goes towards reading the room and meeting people where they are. It’s OK to say, “I don’t know, let me find out for you.”
Dave spoke to one of my favorite topics about wine service – communication. While proper etiquette is important when connecting with guests who want to order wine, Dave highlights that wine servers must take it further and attempt to foster a relationship with a guest to understand their needs:
“At the end of the day, the relationship between a customer and a service professional is like any other human relationship - if one side isn't communicating, it won't function well. The moment one side believes their wants are so obvious that the other side should be a mind reader, the experience is likely going to crumble.”
Corinne, who has had a career in public relations and journalism, expounded on the power of storytelling for those who are selling wine and how it can create an unforgettable experience (both IRL and online)for guests:
“Craft storytelling elements to highlight your wine. Make sure everyone who touches your wine is equipped to tell your story. Use social media and other tools to meet your customers where they are and to build brand engagement. If you are a small winery with a small budget, consider partnering with other like-minded local businesses to tell a regional story.”
So now, what do I, the Chicago-based author, writer, and wine culture expert, talk about to round out this amazing conversation? The power of a great wine pairing.
I know…a few of you might be getting ready to send an angry email or leave a crazy comment, but hear me out! Whether in a Michelin-star restaurant or an al fresco wine dinner in your neighbor’s backyard, wine pairings (IMHO) are what modern wine drinkers desire, and wine servers (both traditional and non-traditional) can deliver a memorable, well-rounded experience.
My fellow wine enthusiasts who shared their thoughtful responses before mine touched on style, logistics, and management of wine service, all of which are crucial to an exceptional wine experience in a restaurant.
To put a bow on this subject matter, I want to speak to the execution of wine experiences where guests can expand their palates and become loyal patrons of the establishment of their choice.
ALL TOGETHER NOW
From my experience as a foodie, beverage enthusiast, and wine geek, wine drinkers appreciate when things GO TOGETHER. Wine and movies. Wine and music. Wine and candy. Wine and painting. Wine and Girl Scout cookies. I could go on and on.
The pairing doesn’t always have to make sense at first. But when unlikely flavors hit someone’s palate, something unique and magical happens. Particularly in a restaurant setting, a pairing menu is a creative collaboration between the chef de cuisine and the beverage director. When thoughtfully developed and executed, a tasting menu can be a perfect opportunity for the guest and the wine server to have a successful dining experience.
Last February, I visited Indienne, a fine dining establishment in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. From the warm greeting by the maître d'to the incredible wine pairings with my pescatarian-focused meal, this was by far the most decadent and imaginative dining experience I had in 2024.
What made this experience so memorable was the intention behind choosing wines that corresponded with each dish. Sommelier Tia Polite was on the floor the night of my visit and was very present for my entire dining experience. Knowing I was in the wine industry, she shared unique facts about the winemakers and the regions. This experience speaks to everything my colleagues Maria, Stacey, Dave, George, and Corinne shared.
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Last summer, I partnered with Segnatore, an Italian eatery in the East Humboldt Park, and collaborated with their chef to develop a happy hour menu. The “Aperitivo Hour” included delicious small bites and the Italian wines on their menu, and I had the opportunity to walk guests through each pairing. This experience exemplified the importance of in-person interaction and community in wine service. It brings me great joy to see guests’ eyes light up not only when they learn something new, but also when they can recreate their own experiences once they have left the restaurant.
Access to great wine shouldn’t be limited to what can be ordered on a restaurant menu; it should encourage guests to share their experiences with others and build rapport with their favorite sommeliers, beverage pros, and retail shop owners.
And as wine service professionals, we must foster community, deliver solid education, meet people where they are with kindness, and support the gathering around a great bottle of wine as much as possible.
I love that you focused some attention on pairings here, and not just with food. In my previous work in retail and now in the winery, one of the most common things people want and respond positively to is being able to envision the *situation* in which they would enjoy this wine. Sometimes that's a particular type of food, but just as often it's being able to picture another fun way to engage with the wine and something else they enjoy.